Winter Weather Worth the Wait

Two late-winter snowstorms blanketed the forested rim, cliffs and upper slopes of Grand Canyon during the past few weeks, raising hopes that the ongoing drought may have run its course. A combined three feet of fresh powder couldn’t have come at a better time as communities in northern Arizona prepare for an active wildfire season. As with most Grand Canyon winter storms, the interplay of fog, rain, flurries, and heavy flakes were punctuated by the occasional view of the Canyon—oftentimes through a brief “window’ in the clouds that tends to close as quickly as it opens. For the patient (and warmly-dressed) photographer, the rewards are many. Generally speaking the hikers and mule riders were less lucky. The trails were ice-covered and nearly impassable for at least the first mile below the frosty South Rim. True to form in springtime, the snow is all but melted in a matter of hours as the clouds have been replaced by the warm Arizona sun.

Coming Full Circle on a Canyon Mystery

This past November, during one of my Grand Canyon forays, I was fortunate enough to stumble upon a thousand-year-old ancestral Puebloan pot. An archaeologist friend later determined the place of origin for this black-on-red, well-fired ceramic as modern-day Tsegi Canyon (roughly one-hundred miles due east). I backpacked into Tsegi last week as a means of coming full circle with my discovery.

The shining jewel of Tsegi is Keet Seel, the largest and best-preserved cliff dwelling in Arizona. Home to over one hundred farmers at its zenith, this remote sandstone paradise was abandoned in the late-1200s.

Though the mysterious kivas, granaries, and dwellings were impressive indeed--the biggest thrill for me personally was running my fingers through a mound of maroon-colored clay; perhaps the same quary used for the pot that fired this pilgrimmage.

A pot that remains intact against impressive odds, both in the field and in my mind.



For more info on Keet Seel click here:
http://www.desertusa.com/mag02/Feb/ksteel.html