Two Can Be a Charm When Hiking the Canyon

As he spring hiking season kicks in, it is worth remembering that 2009 was an unusually harsh year on solo hikers at Grand Canyon. In four separate incidents, men hiking alone have gone missing in the backcountry, their bodies to be recovered days later by Search and Rescue personnel. The causes of death range from falling to heat related illness.

These cautionary tales are a stark reminder that hiking with a companion dramatically increases your chances of survival should something go wrong. In the absence of a satellite telephone, sending a fellow hiker to alert park rangers is the only way to get an injured comrade to definitive care.

If you must hike alone, be sure you know the route, have an emergency plan, keep a realistic itinerary, and leave a detailed schedule with a reliable friend or family member. Hiking alone can be a wonderful experience. But it requires taking extra precautions and a keen understanding of the additional risks.

Strolling Through Earth History

Trying to comprehend the vast geologic time recorded in Grand Canyon’s visible rock layers is a daunting task. A nearly two billion year span from top to bottom is enough to bewilder even the most hardened geologist. Help is arriving in the form of the park’s new Trail of Time. This assortment of wayside exhibits, viewing tubes, and trail markers spaced a meter apart (each representing a million years), will stretch form Yavapai Observation Station to Verkamp’s Visitor Center just east of Grand Canyon Village.

Collectively these teaching tools should help park visitors wrap their intellect around the otherwise abstract concept of our planetary history. The next phase of construction will begin on March 1st, with project completion slated for the late spring/early summer. This leisurely stroll on a paved walkway is suitable for all ages, and wheelchair accessible. If you’re visiting this summer, be sure to work it into your itinerary.

Bicycle Rentals Now Available in Park

For years the park service has been creating a bicycle-friendly infrastructure throughout the developed South Rim and portions of the Greenway Trail System. Bike enthusiasts have enjoyed the fruits of these efforts; often with a tinge of guilt to have unfettered access (and no motorized competition save for shuttle buses) to spectacular stretches of pavement like Hermit Road (formerly West Rim Drive). "Where are the other cyclists?" I’ve heard on more than one occasion.

On May 1st, they arrived. The park service has awarded a bicycle concession to Bright Angel Bicycles. Rentals and tours are now available throughout the year. It's a great way for the whole family to leave the car behind and enjoy a carbon-friendly spin along the rim of the grandest of canyons.

2009, A Year in Review

The Grand Canyon has often been described as "timeless". But we calendar-driven humans can't help ourselves as we prepare to bid another year farewell. And it’s been a memorable twelve months indeed. Of course, the list of newsworthy headlines from the passing year would be too long to mention. But a few notable trends and happenings are worthy of special mention.

Despite the global economic woes, visitors still flocked to the grandest of canyons (though demonstrating a newfound frugality as local merchants would quickly point out). Their enthusiasm for public lands may have been fueled in part by the Ken Burns PBS documentary on national parks. Burns' high-profile production is rumored to be stimulating attendance system wide and will no doubt cement the critical role of the national parks in our collective psyche for decades to come.

Speaking of decades, Grand Canyon National Park celebrated its 90th birthday in 2009, and marked the occasion on the same day the park service officially opened the new Verkamps Visitor Center in Grand Canyon Village. Combined with the sweeping changes occurring at the main Visitor Center near Mather Point, the NPS has dramatically improved its ability to share the amazing story of Grand Canyon with the general public.

Other changes to the visitor experience in 2009 include the permanent closing of popular Mather Point to vehicular traffic, a rerouting of the historic mule day rides from the Bright Angel Trail to one through the forested South Rim, and new procedures for obtaining backcountry permits that eliminate the advantage to applying in person.

Finally, among the millions inspired by the Grand Canyon this year there were a handful of hikers that met their fate between the canyon walls. As we begin a new decade, we do well to honor their passion for the Grand Canyon, and to redouble our own efforts to cherish and protect this treasured landscape.

Jaw-Dropping Snowstorm Pummels the Park

Fifty-plus inches. That is the amount of snow that blanketed northern Arizona during the third week of January, and Grand Canyon National Park was by no means spared. After watching the weather-related destruction in California, park residents braced for the worst—and it arrived in the form of a multi-day pile up that will be talked about for years.

The storm resulted in a virtual shutdown of the region. Roads were closed, businesses shuttered, tourists stranded. When it was all over the views were as glorious as they were unsettling. The trade-off for scenic splendor was leaky roofs and bewildered critters, often up to their necks in wet heavy snow. In sixteen years in the park I’ve never seen anything like it.

Note: If you’re traveling to the park any time soon, expect heavy snow on all trails, and limited access to unpaved thoroughfares.

Snowstorm Trumpets Arrival of Winter

Arizona's first major winter storm of the season blanketed Grand Canyon Village with more than two feet of snow. The December 8^th barrage brought life on the South Rim to a virtual halt. Snowbound tourists were treated to a once-a-year spectacle, hungry deer switched from grass to low-hanging twigs, and locals traded Subarus for snowshoes to make the morning commute. As a fifteen year resident, I've only seen a few winter storms this potent, and rarely this early. This bodes well for the "wet" winter that many are predicting, and is great news for a thirsty forest ecosystem that has been experiencing drought conditions for more than a decade. A lesser snowpack would typically melt in a day or two in sunny Arizona, but this one promises to stick around for a while. If you are planning a Hanukkah, Christmas, or New Year's Eve visit to the park, and were hoping for a winter wonderland, this is your year. Happy holidays!

Early Birds No Longer Get the Worm at Backcountry Office

The National Park Service recently announced forthcoming procedural changes in the way backcountry permits are issued. The biggest, and most controversial, is the elimination of an advantage for individuals who arrive in person on the first day that permits for any given month become available. In an attempt to be more equitable, the NPS backcountry office will process mailed and faxed requests before honoring those made in person. Many local hikers are dismayed at losing what had been a distinct advantage in securing their desired hiking itinerary. Conversely, canyon enthusiasts from across the country (and globe) couldn't be happier about the new arrangement as their chances have improved.

Be Careful What You Ask For

For more than a decade, land managers across the Southwest have been battling the spread of the highly invasive tamarisk tree. This pernicious plant, native to Eurasia, has elbowed out indigenous plants along the banks of the Colorado River and other desert streams and riparian areas. In Grand Canyon National Park, vegetation specialists have eradicated over a quarter million tamarisk trees in their attempt to preserve the integrity of the ecosystem.

In other parts of the Southwest, the tamarisk leaf beetle (Diorhabda spp.) was introduced to help destroy the trees. Unfortunately the beetle has migrated to the upper stretches of the Grand Canyon—well south of its anticipated range. The spread of the beetle in the canyon would likely result in a rapid reduction in the tamarisk population. This sounds good at a glance, but unwelcome consequences include increased wildfire risk in dense stands, and the destruction of habitat for the Southwestern willow flycatcher, an endangered species of bird that nests in isolated tamarisk thickets near the canyon floor.

The National Park Service is monitoring the situation, and exploring contingency plans should the beetle migration continue downstream. Follow this link for more on this unfolding botanical drama whose last chapter is far from written

Only the Lonely: Visiting the North Rim Off-Season

If, as Jonathan Lockwood Huie famously observed, “there is sanctuary in being alone with nature”, then there is little doubt he would gravitate to Grand Canyon National Park’s developed North Rim after the traditional closing date of October 15. Though lodging, meals and most other services are mothballed until mid-May, the park will remain open until November 29 (or until snow accumulation renders Highway 67 impassable). First-come-first-served camping and pay-at-the-pump gas are the only amenities awaiting the hardy few that make the journey. It’s a magical window of time to visit the command overlooks and tree-lined trails of the “other” rim, especially if you’re the type that prefers to go it alone. As a precaution, be sure to bring extra gas, a spare tire (or two), and other emergency provisions. And as always, be sure to leave this “sanctuary” the way you find it.

Artists Have a Brush with the Canyon during Inaugural “Celebration of Art”

The Grand Canyon has often been described as impossible to comprehend. That hasn’t stopped countless artists over the years from trying! In partnership with Grand Canyon National Park, the Grand Canyon Association is pleased to showcase a few of the most renowned living painters during its first-ever “Celebration of Art.” The main events will include a plein air and quick draw competition, live auction, public reception, and a juried exhibit of modern masters in historic Kolb Studio. The main festival will take place September 14-19, but the modern masters exhibit will be on display for several months thereafter. Don’t miss this golden opportunity to mingle with these creative spirits, and their inspiring works.

Puebloan Rock Art Rides out the Ages

The Grand Canyon has a way of serving up irony on occasion. On a recent hike down the Bright Angel Trail I found myself discouraging a Japanese child from scrawling her name on a limestone wall beside the Bright Angel Trail (and her father from videotaping the mischief). Not one to chastise, I tried to change the negative energy by directing their attention to an insider’s secret overhead—scrawlings on a limestone wall beside the Bright Angel Trail.

The difference you ask (as did they)? Anywhere from eight hundred to three thousand years, as park archaeologist Ian Hough would quickly point out. That’s the approximate age of one of the more visually accessible rock art panels in the vicinity of Grand Canyon Village. Mallerys Grotto, an array of tiny animal figures painted by successive groups of Native Americans, can be viewed high above the Bright Angel Trail (under the “lip” of the South Rim) immediately upon emerging from the first tunnel heading downhill (approximately five hundred yards from the trailhead).

As with numerous other examples of paintings (pictographs) and chiselings (petroglyphs) throughout the canyon, the precise meaning of this display remains a mystery. Though the father and daughter were puzzled by my apparent mixed messaging, the three of us could agree on the magic of a Puebloan artist from the distant past whose handiwork continues to instill a sense of wonder in visitors from every corner of our planet.

By the Numbers: A Handy Snapshot at Canyon Facts & Figures

Have you ever found yourself in a dinner conversation being stumped on how many species of crustaceans, sewage treatment plants, or historic landmark structures are located in Grand Canyon National Park? Avoid such embarrassing moments by consulting the “2009 Park Profile” as found on the Grand Canyon National Park official website. This document is updated each year by the National Park Service, and contains all the information you’ll need to be the proverbial “smartest guy (or gal) in the room”. Follow this link to access this indispensable resource: http://www.nps.gov/grca/parkmgmt/upload/ParkProfile2009.pdf

Back on the Wall: My Grand Canyon Photography Finds a New Home

I'm happy to announce that I'm back in the gallery scene after a one-year hiatus. I've recently joined a number of other featured artists at the Flagstaff Piano Clock & Fine Art Gallery. A selection of my best large-scale Ilfochrome and giclee-on-canvas prints are on display (and for sale) in this funky little haunt located in one of Flagstaff, Arizona's charming historic buildings. 

Be sure to swing by next time you're en route to the Grand Canyon (one hour and change up the road), or visit their website at http://flagstaffpianoandclock.com. My work is yet to be posted on the site, but you'll get to see the eclectic artistic company my Grand Canyon images will be keeping. 

"America's Best Idea" Coming Soon

Each Memorial Day weekend a gathering of conservationists, extreme sports enthusiasts, and advocates for Tibetan independence descends upon Telluride, Colorado, for MountainFilm, a long-running documentary film festival that kicks off a busy summer season in this high-altitude hamlet.

I've been attending for several years and have rarely been more excited than during the most recent festival which featured the premier of "The National Parks: America's Best Idea." This latest collaboration between award-winning filmmakers Ken Burns and Dayton Duncan is a sprawling project was ten years in the making. It highlights the history of the National Park System through the lens of the visionaries who championed the preservation of America's amazing natural and cultural heritage.

I caught two installments of the six-part series, and was deeply moved by what I saw. As a longtime resident and educator at Grand Canyon National Park, I walked away with a renewed sense of respect for the park I call home, and for public lands everywhere.

Don't miss this series when it airs on PBS in September (2009). In my opinion it should be required viewing for every citizen of our fine country.

Park's Carbon Footprint Drops a Size

From its natural gas shuttle buses to a robust recycling program, Grand Canyon National Park has been hard at work in recent years adopting "green" business practices. The latest bright idea has the park turning to the sun for a helping hand. In partnership with Arizona Public Service (APS), Grand Canyon National Park has installed eighty-four photovoltaic solar panels at the Visitor Center at Canyon View Information Plaza.

A recent ceremony marked the new initiative which will offset thirty percent of the facility's power needs indefinitely, and double as a springboard to discuss energy efficiency with park visitors and staff (the latter achieved through interpretive wayside exhibits and assorted literature).

The sun was not on the guest list, but crashed the party with crowd-wilting temperatures that sent attendees scrambling for shade and refreshments following speeches by Superintendent Steve Martin, APS President and Chief Executive Officer Don Robinson.

Buzz From Canyon Raft Trip Hard to Shake

It's been a few months since my nine-day whitewater rafting trip in the Grand Canyon, and I still find myself struggling to readjust to the “real” world. Along with twenty-three others I participated in a Grand Canyon Field Institute-sponsored, oar-powered trip from the Phantom Ranch Boat Beach, to Diamond Creek.

This one hundred-plus stretch of the fabled chasm features enormous rapids, remarkable side canyons, towering waterfalls, peculiar wildlife, and sandy beaches.

Indeed, one of the biggest challenges for the 25,000 lucky ducks who take on the Colorado River through Grand Canyon each year is trying to convey their experience upon returning home. It remains elusive to all but the most eloquent of writers and indescribable for those with a mere website column as their vehicle. My advice is to experience the magic firsthand. With the sagging economy, the commercial river running companies are holding their prices, and the days of waiting two years to snag an available spot are gone. So go ahead and break the piggy bank and treat yourself to the trip of a lifetime!

Giving Back: Volunteer Opportunities at Grand Canyon

In the course of my fifteen years residing Grand Canyon National Park I have heard countless stories from visitors for whom the Grand Canyon has forever changed their lives. The list includes a school teacher from Taipei, a retired banker from Paris, an opera stage manager from Venice, and dozens of weekend warriors from neighboring communities like Flagstaff and Sedona that hike the canyon any chance they get.

Many have found a way to channel their energy and enthusiasm into volunteer programs as a way to express their gratefulness (if not devotion) to the canyon they hold dear. From removing non-native plants, to counting migrating raptors, the opportunities are many. The outings are fun, informative, and a great way to meet likeminded outdoor enthusiasts.

The Grand Canyon Trust is a great place to start for those looking for ways to give back. Check out their website for more details http://www.gcvolunteers.org/

Big Changes Afoot for Mather Point

Ask just about anyone where they caught their first glimpse of the Grand Canyon and chances are they’ll answer Mather Point. Due to its close proximity to the busiest park entrance station, the lofty overlook is a typical first stop for visitors. Mather Point was named after the first director of the National Park Service, Stephen Mather, and never fails to dazzle the throngs that brave the guardrail-encased precipice.

Beginning this April, the National Park Service will begin a multi-phase construction project that will dramatically alter the Mather Point experience. Roads will be re-aligned, new parking areas will be developed, trailside exhibitry installed, and visitor amenities will be expanded at the nearby visitor center.

Once completed, the new and improved Mather Point area will provide an even more dramatic experience for those that have travelled near and far to gape at one of the natural wonders of the world.

 

Grand Canyon Hiker Symposium: Campfire Stories without the Smoke

Hikers generally need a very good reason to linger indoors, and the Grand Canyon Hiker’s and Backpackers Association is providing a dandy in the form of the third annual Grand Canyon Hikers Symposium.

The event will consist of short presentations by some of Grand Canyon’s elite backcountry enthusiasts, and a few mere mortals, on the twists and turns of a particularly memorable hike. Given the hardships and hallelujahs that the canyon can serve up under even the best of conditions, these hard won tales are certain to entertain both hikers and rim dwellers alike.

Here are the particulars:

When: 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Saturday, April 4, 2009

Where: Shrine of the Ages, Grand Canyon Village, Grand Canyon National Park

Cost: free and open to the public. Bring a friend!

Follow this link for a map to Grand Canyon Village.

The Shrine of the Ages is located adjacent to Park Headquarters and a short walk from Market Plaza. The Shrine of the Ages is conveniently located within a mile or two of the Bright Angel and South Kaibab Trails if the spirit moves you.

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Twin Ceremonies Celebrate Park’s History and Future

February 26^th was a day of speeches, ribbon cutting, and cake for all on the South Rim. The date marked the 90^th anniversary for Grand Canyon National Park. With the stroke of a pen on February 26, 1919, President Woodrow Wilson added Grand Canyon to the growing list of national parks in the fledgling National Park System. A small ceremony was conducted in the Canyon View Information Plaza, including a rousing interpretive program by NPS ranger Dave Smith in period garb.

 The celebration then moved down the rim to the official opening of the Verkamp’s Visitor Center. Readers of this column will recall that the Verkamp family sold its interest in their century-old family business to the park service in 2008. Three of the family members were in attendance, each giving emotional speech about growing up along the rim. Other dignitaries included a representative from Arizona Congressman Grijalva’s office, and Phyllis Kachinhongva, a Hopi woman who grew up as a neighbor of the Verkamp’s family, and served as an NPS interpreter before retiring recently.

 Phyllis gave a traditional Hopi blessing for the new Visitor Center. As she uttered her final words a California condor flew low over the gathering, much to the delight of the overflow crowd. The new Verkamp’s Visitor Center will be opened all year, with ranger programs beginning on the doorstep throughout the day.

 Follow this link for more information on the historic day’s events http://www.nps.gov/grca/parknews/2009-02-02_90th.htm