Winter Weather Worth the Wait

Two late-winter snowstorms blanketed the forested rim, cliffs and upper slopes of Grand Canyon during the past few weeks, raising hopes that the ongoing drought may have run its course. A combined three feet of fresh powder couldn’t have come at a better time as communities in northern Arizona prepare for an active wildfire season. As with most Grand Canyon winter storms, the interplay of fog, rain, flurries, and heavy flakes were punctuated by the occasional view of the Canyon—oftentimes through a brief “window’ in the clouds that tends to close as quickly as it opens. For the patient (and warmly-dressed) photographer, the rewards are many. Generally speaking the hikers and mule riders were less lucky. The trails were ice-covered and nearly impassable for at least the first mile below the frosty South Rim. True to form in springtime, the snow is all but melted in a matter of hours as the clouds have been replaced by the warm Arizona sun.

Coming Full Circle on a Canyon Mystery

This past November, during one of my Grand Canyon forays, I was fortunate enough to stumble upon a thousand-year-old ancestral Puebloan pot. An archaeologist friend later determined the place of origin for this black-on-red, well-fired ceramic as modern-day Tsegi Canyon (roughly one-hundred miles due east). I backpacked into Tsegi last week as a means of coming full circle with my discovery.

The shining jewel of Tsegi is Keet Seel, the largest and best-preserved cliff dwelling in Arizona. Home to over one hundred farmers at its zenith, this remote sandstone paradise was abandoned in the late-1200s.

Though the mysterious kivas, granaries, and dwellings were impressive indeed--the biggest thrill for me personally was running my fingers through a mound of maroon-colored clay; perhaps the same quary used for the pot that fired this pilgrimmage.

A pot that remains intact against impressive odds, both in the field and in my mind.



For more info on Keet Seel click here:
http://www.desertusa.com/mag02/Feb/ksteel.html

Big Canyon; Small World

The National Park Service has estimated that nearly 30% of Grand Canyon National Park's 4.5 million annual visitors reside overseas. This seems most appropriate given Grand Canyon's status as a World Heritage Site as declared by UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization). Less is known about the specific nationalities of these foreign visitors. Brits, Germans and Japanese are some of the most frequent countries of origin, though numbers largely depend on the relative strength of worldwide economies. For example, during the Asian financial crisis in the late 90s, far fewer Pacific Rim visitors were able to make the expensive journey.

Lately I have noticed a large increase in tourists hailing from China and the Indian subcontinent. This should come as no surprise given the emerging muscle in their respective economies. A growing middle class typically results in more citizens with the means, and desire, to travel. What I find most interesting is that, regardless of one's point of origin or cultural background, the Grand Canyon has a common mesmerizing impact on all. For this writer, the world feels a bit smaller as a result, and it brings me hope that we can find peaceful means to bridge our differences.

Romance on the Rim

Valentine's Day is fast approaching, and love is in the air. My favorite Grand Canyon lovebird story happened last year as I was leading a family from Philadelphia to remote Shoshone Point as a Grand Canyon Field Institute instructor.

On the dusty road through the forest, just short ofthe South Rim, we encountered a flustered bride and groom on Harleys with a preacher and photographer close behind in their SUV. The couple from Wisconsin were on the rim and just about to exchange vows when the preacher remembered that they needed one more witness (besides the photographer) to make it legal.

Their choice was to drive miles back to Grand Canyon Village and recruit one, or convince us to suspend our hike and conduct the ceremony right there onthe road. My clients were game, so the ceremony began in earnest before the dust from the bikes even settled. Seconds into the preacher's words I noticed that the mother and daughter of the family in my charge were watery-eyed. "Is it the dust?" I whispered. "No," said the sobbing mother. "We always cry at weddings."

Everyone had a good laugh. The newlyweds were delighted by the serendipity, and I have heard since that they all keep in touch.

L' Amore!

Happy New Year!

The holidays have come and gone at Grand Canyon; as have the crowds. The weeks between New Year’s Eve and the arrival of the spring breakers in March are historically marked by the lowest park visitation of the year. Local residents, perhaps 1,200 strong, seize the opportunity to enjoy the Canyon with fewer distractions. Even the wildlife seems to sense the diminished activity as they are in more ready supply, and tend to linger longer, during the winter months. Speaking of winter, the desert Southwest has been locked in a low-precipitation pattern since mid-October. Collective fingers (and hooves?) are crossed as we anxiously await the first blanket of snow.

No Love at First Sight

I spent this past weekend lecturing on the Grand Canyon in wonderful Santa Fe, New Mexico. Whenever I visit I am intrigued by the Spanish influence that dates back to the early 1500s. Their push northward out of Mexico was as bold as it was contentious. The treatment of the native peoples of the area left much to be desired. The Spanish were the first Europeans to view the Grand Canyon. An expeditionary party led by Garcia Lopez de Cardenas stepped up to the South Rim near modern day Moran Point in 1540 along with their Hopi guides. They were seeking a waterway to the Gulf of California as well as Cibola, the fabled seven cities of gold. According to their journals they were frustrated by the impenetrable obstacle; one that we know today as the Grand Canyon. They left empty handed as it were, tricked by the Hopi guides who had many ways into the canyon in the vicinity, but no desire to share them with these menacing guests.

Splitting the Baby: Colorado River Management Plan Unfolds

No discussion of Grand Canyon is complete without at least a tip of the hat to the Colorado River -- the primary carver of the Canyon and the lifeblood of its diverse ecosystem. Beyond the river's role as a natural and cultural resource, it provides the splash in a world-class whitewater experience. This is a river that wears many hats. And for every hat there are highly engaged constituents, advocates, and user groups that have a large stake in its management. After years of research, public meetings, and high-profile policy making, Grand Canyon National Park has released the much anticipated final environmental impact statement (FEIS) to revise the Colorado River Management Plan (CRMP). This document will regulate the use of the Colorado River through Grand Canyon for decades to come. Read all about it through the following link: http://www.nps.gov/grca/crmp/.

The Canyon Name Game

Many international visitors wonder how it came to be that many major land formations in the Canyon are named after Asian religious deities. The task of naming the buttes, mesas, and temples was left to early geologists, artists, and mapmakers. Principal among these was Clarence Edward Dutton, a geologist and student of world religions. During his ambitious Grand Canyon geologic expedition of 1880-1881, Dutton researched his seminal work, "The Tertiary History of the Grand Canyon District, with Atlas." While mapping out the Canyon from the lofty North Rim, he dubbed a few of the mountainous landforms to the east of his position Brahma Temple, Vishnu Temple and Shiva Temple (the "trimurti" in the Hindu pantheon of gods). Those who followed Dutton carried on the tradition, and titles that encompassed Greek and Roman mythology as well as Shakespearean characters were assigned. Given that Grand Canyon has been declared a "World Heritage Site" by the United Nations, the eclectic naming of the Canyon's famous pinnacles seems only fitting. See a few of these majestic landforms by clicking this link: http://www.grandcanyonprints.com/pages/gcgallery_2.htm

Yesterday Comes Knocking

Last week, while scrambling on a steep slope below the South Rim, I stumbled upon an amazing find. There in the dirt lie five hand-sized pieces of a broken ancient Anasazi pot. I was frozen in my tracks and the centuries melted away while I tried to determine how this lovely artifact reached this spot, and to grasp the significance of me chancing upon it. I returned day's later with park service archaeologist Ian Hough. Ian determined quickly that this rare find was indeed an Anasazi ceramic, molded and fired roughly nine hundred years earlier, and carried to this spot from Tsegi Canyon (modern day Navajo National Monument eighty miles to the east). For documentation purposes he reassembled the pot and had me hold it aloft for his camera. Standing there for my closeup, hands mildly trembling, reverently displaying the intricately painted ware, was one of the most powerful moments I've spent in the Canyon. We left the pot on a precarious ledge where I found it (or it found me).

View photograph of pot.

The Early Bird Gets the Worm

The "Golden Hour" in the lexicon of photographers refers to the hour prior to sunrise, and after sunset (give or take a few minutes). The angle of the sun during these windows often lends itself to some of the day's most promising light to compose great images. Grand Canyon is certainly no exception to this rule. Combine this universal phenomenon with the region's low humidity, limited air pollution, and infrequent cloud cover and you can almost bank on a good shot or two if you're willing to rise early and linger late. For more information on this trick of the trade, check out the following link: http://www.digicamhelp.com/what-is-the-golden-hour/

A Shot in the Dark: Night Hiking at GC

Overheated summer hikers at Grand Canyon sometimes receive some counterintuitive advice from those in the know -- wait until dark. Before pushing uphill that is. Nocturnal travel is nothing new to the Canyon's many desert critters, and is much more desirable than wilting in triple digit temperatures. The views under a full or near-full moon are less spectacular than during daylight hours, but visibility is amazing and the experience surreal. I would only recommend this type of endeavor on trails that you are familiar with. And don't forget the flashlight (and spare batteries) in case the clouds move in. Personally, it's the one hike when I don't feel guilty leaving my camera at home.

North Rim: The High Life

I spent this past weekend on the North Rim. Although just ten air miles away from my daily life on the South Rim, the quickest way to arrive by vehicle takes at least four hours. But, oh, is it worth the effort. The North Rim towers over the South Rim by 1,000 feet. This extra height welcomes nearly twice the rainfall, and supports a much more lush forest -- one that includes aspen, fir and spruce, not to mention the North Rim's famous high-altitude meadows. The vibe in both visitors and employees is more laid back than the bustling Grand Canyon Village, and the pace is a gear or two slower too. The wildflower bloom was a sight to behold, though I was a month or two early for the changing of the leaves. The remote nature of the North Rim (and resultant meager visitation), combined with its harsh winter, have led the park service to shut down the tourist infrastructure from November through April each year. If you've never visited, don't wait any longer. If you've been there before, hurry back!

Rain is Gain

We northern Arizonans are keeping one eye on the skies these days, as we anxiously await the summer rains. The weather pattern known as the "monsoon" can usually be counted on to bring relief from the blistering heat to every living thing http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/weather/monsoon.htm. With history as a guide the rains are late in coming this year, but forecasters say they are on the way shortly. The flip side of this watery relief is the flash flooding that can occur in low lying areas. Be sure to stay out of narrow drainages and slot canyons during the coming months, especially in the afternoon. Even with blue skies above you might be surprised by a whistling ten foot wall of water...a great way to ruin a day (life?). Oh yes, and don't forget to dodge the frequent lightning (leave the spiked golf shoes at home). Have fun, stay safe, hike smart, and enjoy Mother Nature's watery gift from a safe distance.

Four-Legged Friends

While shooting the Canyon yesterday morning near the El Tovar Hotel, I chanced upon a young woman meditating on a precarious cliff. Upon further inspection I could see a Desert Bighorn on the slope beneath her, casually munching on a plant. These endangered, deer-like mammals are usually wary of humans. I joined her to get a better vantage and realized that no less than five of these creatures were converging on our position from every angle (including some boot-wide ledges below). We agreed it was Julie's energy that was luring them in. I got my pictures, but judging from the tears rolling down Julie's cheeks, she got much, much more. Desert Bighorn range from rim-to-river in Grand Canyon, and are usually spotted in rocky terrain. Read more by visiting this cool website:http://www.desertusa.com/big.html

Where There's Smoke There's Fire

Visitors headed to the Grand Canyon for the Fourth-of-July weekend may find it hard to locate a non-smoking section; outdoors that is. Several sizable wildfires in southern Utah are responsible for the brownish haze in the air that is diminishing the world-class views for which Grand Canyon is famous. Wildfires are naturally occurring phenomena in the forests of the West, and are especially common in the hotter summer months during which humidity drops to single digits. Wildfires are typically started by “dry” lightning, and, unfortunately, by humans making careless use of fire. Due to the latter, there are often fire and use restrictions in national parks and national forests. Check out the following website to see if your desired destination is affected: http://www.fs.fed.us/r3/fire/information/firerestrictions/az/restrictions_az.htm. Be safe, have fun, and please use extra caution when utilizing campfires or disposing of cigarettes.

Centennial for Grand Canyon's Most Recognizable Historic Structures

The El Tovar Hotel and Hopi House are enjoying their centennial celebration this year (http://www.grandcanyon-southrim.com/print/21.htm). Both were built in 1905 by the Santa Fe railroad which opened rail service to Grand Canyon Village in 1901. With their vision, architects Charles Whittlesley (El Tovar) and Mary Jane Colter (Hopi House) are largely responsible for the "look" of the historic Village District on the South rim. Be sure to visit these magnificent structures during your next visit!

Rare June Storm a Hair-Raising Event

Arizona has enjoyed unseasonably mild temperatures during the first two weeks of June, and Grand Canyon is no exception. A rare June thunderstorm this past weekend did its part to cool things down. I took the opportunity to look for rainbows at my favorite overlook, Yaki Point. While shielding my camera from a light rain, the metal stem of my umbrella began to spark and crackle due to the electricity in the air, and my hair stood on end. I made a beeline to my vehicle just before the lightning began in earnest, and found out later that two visitors had been struck a few miles away. My tempting of the gods did pay off with some great pictures, but I wouldn't advise such risky behavior as a rule. Its much safer to buy my prints and let me continue to take all the chances!

See you on the trail.

Grand Canyon -- Coming to a Cubicle Near You

So you're in your office cubicle in Kansas City, and wishing you were anywhere else. You reach into your desk and retrieve a well-worn photo of the Grand Canyon from your last trip. You study every cliff and slope until your daydream is shattered by a ringing phone and another angry client. If this is ritual sounds familiar, come to the park for a visit. If you can't afford to make the journey, do the next best thing, bookmark the park service Web cam and come back as often as you like! http://www2.nature.nps.gov/air/webcams/parks/grcacam/grcacam.cfm

Getting High in Northern AZ

When most people think of great hiking destinations in northern Arizona, they typically focus on the Grand Canyon. Ask any local however, and they will likely mention the San Francisco Peaks outside Flagstaff--especially during the summer months when Canyon temperatures can reach triple digits. These ancient, dormant volcanic mountains are anchored by Humphreys Peak. At 12,633 feet, Humphreys is the highest point in Arizona. Check out this handy website for some helpful hiking tips: http://www.trails.com/activity.asp?AreaID=%7BC191BEA6-ED67-44C4-BAB0-02896CCAFA80%7D.

Too Hot to Hike? Think Fall...

With Inner Canyon temperatures reaching triple digits, those in the know are staying on the high ground for the remainder of the summer (unless, of course, you're going on a river trip where relief is just a dip away). Though too toasty to backpack, summer is the perfect time to plan your fall outings at Grand Canyon. Backcountry camping permits for the month of October are now available. Judging by the lines at the Backcountry Office yesterday, they're going fast. I was lucky enough to secure a rim-to-rim permit for the middle of October when I'll be taking my wife and a handful of unsuspecting friends on what's often referred to as the quintessential Grand Canyon trek.

Permits can be obtained from the Backcountry Office in person, by mail, or via fax. Check out Grand Canyon National Park's Web site for details on securing your hiking permit (http://www.nps.gov/grca/backcountry/permit_procedures.htm).