2009, A Year in Review

The Grand Canyon has often been described as "timeless". But we calendar-driven humans can't help ourselves as we prepare to bid another year farewell. And it’s been a memorable twelve months indeed. Of course, the list of newsworthy headlines from the passing year would be too long to mention. But a few notable trends and happenings are worthy of special mention.

Despite the global economic woes, visitors still flocked to the grandest of canyons (though demonstrating a newfound frugality as local merchants would quickly point out). Their enthusiasm for public lands may have been fueled in part by the Ken Burns PBS documentary on national parks. Burns' high-profile production is rumored to be stimulating attendance system wide and will no doubt cement the critical role of the national parks in our collective psyche for decades to come.

Speaking of decades, Grand Canyon National Park celebrated its 90th birthday in 2009, and marked the occasion on the same day the park service officially opened the new Verkamps Visitor Center in Grand Canyon Village. Combined with the sweeping changes occurring at the main Visitor Center near Mather Point, the NPS has dramatically improved its ability to share the amazing story of Grand Canyon with the general public.

Other changes to the visitor experience in 2009 include the permanent closing of popular Mather Point to vehicular traffic, a rerouting of the historic mule day rides from the Bright Angel Trail to one through the forested South Rim, and new procedures for obtaining backcountry permits that eliminate the advantage to applying in person.

Finally, among the millions inspired by the Grand Canyon this year there were a handful of hikers that met their fate between the canyon walls. As we begin a new decade, we do well to honor their passion for the Grand Canyon, and to redouble our own efforts to cherish and protect this treasured landscape.

Jaw-Dropping Snowstorm Pummels the Park

Fifty-plus inches. That is the amount of snow that blanketed northern Arizona during the third week of January, and Grand Canyon National Park was by no means spared. After watching the weather-related destruction in California, park residents braced for the worst—and it arrived in the form of a multi-day pile up that will be talked about for years.

The storm resulted in a virtual shutdown of the region. Roads were closed, businesses shuttered, tourists stranded. When it was all over the views were as glorious as they were unsettling. The trade-off for scenic splendor was leaky roofs and bewildered critters, often up to their necks in wet heavy snow. In sixteen years in the park I’ve never seen anything like it.

Note: If you’re traveling to the park any time soon, expect heavy snow on all trails, and limited access to unpaved thoroughfares.

Snowstorm Trumpets Arrival of Winter

Arizona's first major winter storm of the season blanketed Grand Canyon Village with more than two feet of snow. The December 8^th barrage brought life on the South Rim to a virtual halt. Snowbound tourists were treated to a once-a-year spectacle, hungry deer switched from grass to low-hanging twigs, and locals traded Subarus for snowshoes to make the morning commute. As a fifteen year resident, I've only seen a few winter storms this potent, and rarely this early. This bodes well for the "wet" winter that many are predicting, and is great news for a thirsty forest ecosystem that has been experiencing drought conditions for more than a decade. A lesser snowpack would typically melt in a day or two in sunny Arizona, but this one promises to stick around for a while. If you are planning a Hanukkah, Christmas, or New Year's Eve visit to the park, and were hoping for a winter wonderland, this is your year. Happy holidays!

Early Birds No Longer Get the Worm at Backcountry Office

The National Park Service recently announced forthcoming procedural changes in the way backcountry permits are issued. The biggest, and most controversial, is the elimination of an advantage for individuals who arrive in person on the first day that permits for any given month become available. In an attempt to be more equitable, the NPS backcountry office will process mailed and faxed requests before honoring those made in person. Many local hikers are dismayed at losing what had been a distinct advantage in securing their desired hiking itinerary. Conversely, canyon enthusiasts from across the country (and globe) couldn't be happier about the new arrangement as their chances have improved.

Be Careful What You Ask For

For more than a decade, land managers across the Southwest have been battling the spread of the highly invasive tamarisk tree. This pernicious plant, native to Eurasia, has elbowed out indigenous plants along the banks of the Colorado River and other desert streams and riparian areas. In Grand Canyon National Park, vegetation specialists have eradicated over a quarter million tamarisk trees in their attempt to preserve the integrity of the ecosystem.

In other parts of the Southwest, the tamarisk leaf beetle (Diorhabda spp.) was introduced to help destroy the trees. Unfortunately the beetle has migrated to the upper stretches of the Grand Canyon—well south of its anticipated range. The spread of the beetle in the canyon would likely result in a rapid reduction in the tamarisk population. This sounds good at a glance, but unwelcome consequences include increased wildfire risk in dense stands, and the destruction of habitat for the Southwestern willow flycatcher, an endangered species of bird that nests in isolated tamarisk thickets near the canyon floor.

The National Park Service is monitoring the situation, and exploring contingency plans should the beetle migration continue downstream. Follow this link for more on this unfolding botanical drama whose last chapter is far from written

Only the Lonely: Visiting the North Rim Off-Season

If, as Jonathan Lockwood Huie famously observed, “there is sanctuary in being alone with nature”, then there is little doubt he would gravitate to Grand Canyon National Park’s developed North Rim after the traditional closing date of October 15. Though lodging, meals and most other services are mothballed until mid-May, the park will remain open until November 29 (or until snow accumulation renders Highway 67 impassable). First-come-first-served camping and pay-at-the-pump gas are the only amenities awaiting the hardy few that make the journey. It’s a magical window of time to visit the command overlooks and tree-lined trails of the “other” rim, especially if you’re the type that prefers to go it alone. As a precaution, be sure to bring extra gas, a spare tire (or two), and other emergency provisions. And as always, be sure to leave this “sanctuary” the way you find it.

Artists Have a Brush with the Canyon during Inaugural “Celebration of Art”

The Grand Canyon has often been described as impossible to comprehend. That hasn’t stopped countless artists over the years from trying! In partnership with Grand Canyon National Park, the Grand Canyon Association is pleased to showcase a few of the most renowned living painters during its first-ever “Celebration of Art.” The main events will include a plein air and quick draw competition, live auction, public reception, and a juried exhibit of modern masters in historic Kolb Studio. The main festival will take place September 14-19, but the modern masters exhibit will be on display for several months thereafter. Don’t miss this golden opportunity to mingle with these creative spirits, and their inspiring works.

Puebloan Rock Art Rides out the Ages

The Grand Canyon has a way of serving up irony on occasion. On a recent hike down the Bright Angel Trail I found myself discouraging a Japanese child from scrawling her name on a limestone wall beside the Bright Angel Trail (and her father from videotaping the mischief). Not one to chastise, I tried to change the negative energy by directing their attention to an insider’s secret overhead—scrawlings on a limestone wall beside the Bright Angel Trail.

The difference you ask (as did they)? Anywhere from eight hundred to three thousand years, as park archaeologist Ian Hough would quickly point out. That’s the approximate age of one of the more visually accessible rock art panels in the vicinity of Grand Canyon Village. Mallerys Grotto, an array of tiny animal figures painted by successive groups of Native Americans, can be viewed high above the Bright Angel Trail (under the “lip” of the South Rim) immediately upon emerging from the first tunnel heading downhill (approximately five hundred yards from the trailhead).

As with numerous other examples of paintings (pictographs) and chiselings (petroglyphs) throughout the canyon, the precise meaning of this display remains a mystery. Though the father and daughter were puzzled by my apparent mixed messaging, the three of us could agree on the magic of a Puebloan artist from the distant past whose handiwork continues to instill a sense of wonder in visitors from every corner of our planet.

By the Numbers: A Handy Snapshot at Canyon Facts & Figures

Have you ever found yourself in a dinner conversation being stumped on how many species of crustaceans, sewage treatment plants, or historic landmark structures are located in Grand Canyon National Park? Avoid such embarrassing moments by consulting the “2009 Park Profile” as found on the Grand Canyon National Park official website. This document is updated each year by the National Park Service, and contains all the information you’ll need to be the proverbial “smartest guy (or gal) in the room”. Follow this link to access this indispensable resource: http://www.nps.gov/grca/parkmgmt/upload/ParkProfile2009.pdf

Back on the Wall: My Grand Canyon Photography Finds a New Home

I'm happy to announce that I'm back in the gallery scene after a one-year hiatus. I've recently joined a number of other featured artists at the Flagstaff Piano Clock & Fine Art Gallery. A selection of my best large-scale Ilfochrome and giclee-on-canvas prints are on display (and for sale) in this funky little haunt located in one of Flagstaff, Arizona's charming historic buildings. 

Be sure to swing by next time you're en route to the Grand Canyon (one hour and change up the road), or visit their website at http://flagstaffpianoandclock.com. My work is yet to be posted on the site, but you'll get to see the eclectic artistic company my Grand Canyon images will be keeping. 

"America's Best Idea" Coming Soon

Each Memorial Day weekend a gathering of conservationists, extreme sports enthusiasts, and advocates for Tibetan independence descends upon Telluride, Colorado, for MountainFilm, a long-running documentary film festival that kicks off a busy summer season in this high-altitude hamlet.

I've been attending for several years and have rarely been more excited than during the most recent festival which featured the premier of "The National Parks: America's Best Idea." This latest collaboration between award-winning filmmakers Ken Burns and Dayton Duncan is a sprawling project was ten years in the making. It highlights the history of the National Park System through the lens of the visionaries who championed the preservation of America's amazing natural and cultural heritage.

I caught two installments of the six-part series, and was deeply moved by what I saw. As a longtime resident and educator at Grand Canyon National Park, I walked away with a renewed sense of respect for the park I call home, and for public lands everywhere.

Don't miss this series when it airs on PBS in September (2009). In my opinion it should be required viewing for every citizen of our fine country.

Park's Carbon Footprint Drops a Size

From its natural gas shuttle buses to a robust recycling program, Grand Canyon National Park has been hard at work in recent years adopting "green" business practices. The latest bright idea has the park turning to the sun for a helping hand. In partnership with Arizona Public Service (APS), Grand Canyon National Park has installed eighty-four photovoltaic solar panels at the Visitor Center at Canyon View Information Plaza.

A recent ceremony marked the new initiative which will offset thirty percent of the facility's power needs indefinitely, and double as a springboard to discuss energy efficiency with park visitors and staff (the latter achieved through interpretive wayside exhibits and assorted literature).

The sun was not on the guest list, but crashed the party with crowd-wilting temperatures that sent attendees scrambling for shade and refreshments following speeches by Superintendent Steve Martin, APS President and Chief Executive Officer Don Robinson.

Buzz From Canyon Raft Trip Hard to Shake

It's been a few months since my nine-day whitewater rafting trip in the Grand Canyon, and I still find myself struggling to readjust to the “real” world. Along with twenty-three others I participated in a Grand Canyon Field Institute-sponsored, oar-powered trip from the Phantom Ranch Boat Beach, to Diamond Creek.

This one hundred-plus stretch of the fabled chasm features enormous rapids, remarkable side canyons, towering waterfalls, peculiar wildlife, and sandy beaches.

Indeed, one of the biggest challenges for the 25,000 lucky ducks who take on the Colorado River through Grand Canyon each year is trying to convey their experience upon returning home. It remains elusive to all but the most eloquent of writers and indescribable for those with a mere website column as their vehicle. My advice is to experience the magic firsthand. With the sagging economy, the commercial river running companies are holding their prices, and the days of waiting two years to snag an available spot are gone. So go ahead and break the piggy bank and treat yourself to the trip of a lifetime!

Giving Back: Volunteer Opportunities at Grand Canyon

In the course of my fifteen years residing Grand Canyon National Park I have heard countless stories from visitors for whom the Grand Canyon has forever changed their lives. The list includes a school teacher from Taipei, a retired banker from Paris, an opera stage manager from Venice, and dozens of weekend warriors from neighboring communities like Flagstaff and Sedona that hike the canyon any chance they get.

Many have found a way to channel their energy and enthusiasm into volunteer programs as a way to express their gratefulness (if not devotion) to the canyon they hold dear. From removing non-native plants, to counting migrating raptors, the opportunities are many. The outings are fun, informative, and a great way to meet likeminded outdoor enthusiasts.

The Grand Canyon Trust is a great place to start for those looking for ways to give back. Check out their website for more details http://www.gcvolunteers.org/

Big Changes Afoot for Mather Point

Ask just about anyone where they caught their first glimpse of the Grand Canyon and chances are they’ll answer Mather Point. Due to its close proximity to the busiest park entrance station, the lofty overlook is a typical first stop for visitors. Mather Point was named after the first director of the National Park Service, Stephen Mather, and never fails to dazzle the throngs that brave the guardrail-encased precipice.

Beginning this April, the National Park Service will begin a multi-phase construction project that will dramatically alter the Mather Point experience. Roads will be re-aligned, new parking areas will be developed, trailside exhibitry installed, and visitor amenities will be expanded at the nearby visitor center.

Once completed, the new and improved Mather Point area will provide an even more dramatic experience for those that have travelled near and far to gape at one of the natural wonders of the world.

 

Grand Canyon Hiker Symposium: Campfire Stories without the Smoke

Hikers generally need a very good reason to linger indoors, and the Grand Canyon Hiker’s and Backpackers Association is providing a dandy in the form of the third annual Grand Canyon Hikers Symposium.

The event will consist of short presentations by some of Grand Canyon’s elite backcountry enthusiasts, and a few mere mortals, on the twists and turns of a particularly memorable hike. Given the hardships and hallelujahs that the canyon can serve up under even the best of conditions, these hard won tales are certain to entertain both hikers and rim dwellers alike.

Here are the particulars:

When: 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Saturday, April 4, 2009

Where: Shrine of the Ages, Grand Canyon Village, Grand Canyon National Park

Cost: free and open to the public. Bring a friend!

Follow this link for a map to Grand Canyon Village.

The Shrine of the Ages is located adjacent to Park Headquarters and a short walk from Market Plaza. The Shrine of the Ages is conveniently located within a mile or two of the Bright Angel and South Kaibab Trails if the spirit moves you.

Thank you for tuning into "All Things Grand Canyon". GrandCanyonPrints.com offers the grandest in Grand Canyon photographs.

Twin Ceremonies Celebrate Park’s History and Future

February 26^th was a day of speeches, ribbon cutting, and cake for all on the South Rim. The date marked the 90^th anniversary for Grand Canyon National Park. With the stroke of a pen on February 26, 1919, President Woodrow Wilson added Grand Canyon to the growing list of national parks in the fledgling National Park System. A small ceremony was conducted in the Canyon View Information Plaza, including a rousing interpretive program by NPS ranger Dave Smith in period garb.

 The celebration then moved down the rim to the official opening of the Verkamp’s Visitor Center. Readers of this column will recall that the Verkamp family sold its interest in their century-old family business to the park service in 2008. Three of the family members were in attendance, each giving emotional speech about growing up along the rim. Other dignitaries included a representative from Arizona Congressman Grijalva’s office, and Phyllis Kachinhongva, a Hopi woman who grew up as a neighbor of the Verkamp’s family, and served as an NPS interpreter before retiring recently.

 Phyllis gave a traditional Hopi blessing for the new Visitor Center. As she uttered her final words a California condor flew low over the gathering, much to the delight of the overflow crowd. The new Verkamp’s Visitor Center will be opened all year, with ranger programs beginning on the doorstep throughout the day.

 Follow this link for more information on the historic day’s events http://www.nps.gov/grca/parknews/2009-02-02_90th.htm

 

Craig Childs' "House of Rain" A Must Read

During a visit to the Heartland over Christmas I brought along Craig Childs' latest book "House of Rain." It's a sprawling read that covers the rise and fall of the Anasazi—ancestral puebloan people that inhabited the Four Corners region of the Colorado Plateau for centuries before....(ah, ah, ah, don't want to give it away!). Though my beloved Grand Canyon receives only a passing mention, many of the other places such as Chaco Canyon, Cedar Mesa, and Keet Seel that figure more prominently are also near and dear to my heart. Craig speaks with the authority of one who is intimate with nearly every step on the serpentine trajectory of this fabled culture. "House of Rain" served as an indispensable tether to my adopted home in northern Arizona, even as I rambled about the snow-clad familiarity of my native Iowa. This is required reading for anyone enchanted by the human response to one of the planet's most intriguing landscapes. The book can be purchased onAmazon.com http://www.amazon.com/House-Rain-Tracking-Civilization-Southwest/dp/0316067547/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1231384236&sr=8-1

A Glance Back at 2008

Before marching headlong into the New Year, you may enjoy a snap recap of 2008 at Grand Canyon National Park. It was a dynamic year indeed. The National Park Service celebrated both the 100^th anniversary of Grand Canyon being declared a national monument (national park status would follow in 1919), and the 75^th anniversary of the amazing contributions of the depression-era Civilian Conservation Corps. 

Flooding also made the headlines. Once in the form of an experimental "high flow event" on the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon (the third of its kind), and the other in a devastating, storm-fueled flash flood that ravaged the Havasu Creek drainage – home to the Havasupai tribe and their majestic waterfalls. 

The park service completed an extensive construction and repair project on the historic Hermit Road, reopening with pomp and circumstance in November. 

Among the "firsts" the park service and their partners conducted a wildly successful "Celebrate Wildlife" day, and a marathon footrace that attracted hundreds of eager runners from around the country. 

The Verkamp family ended their century-long presence on the rim in Grand Canyon Village as purveyors of Native American handicrafts and other souvenirs. The NPS has converted their landmark structure into a visitor center in partnership with the Grand Canyon Association who will operate a retail outlet as well. 

Finally, although the world economic turmoil put a damper on park visitation, people still continued to arrive in droves to enjoy the grandest of canyons. Along with hundreds of my fellow Grand Canyon residents, I look forward to another wonderful year living on the edge, and would like to wish everyone a very Happy New Year!

Changing of the Guard at Grand Canyon Landmark

On November 26, Grand Canyon National Park re-opened historic Verkamps Curios as a combination visitor contact station and retail outlet. Verkamps Curios had previously been the longest-running family owned concession in the National Park System before selling their operation and facility to the National Park Service earlier this year. The stately building sits on the edge of the South Rim in the Historic Village District. With its command view of the Grand Canyon, quality merchandise, and cozy fireplace, Verkamps Curios attracted tourists for over one hundred years. The NPS will use it's new facility to provide visitor information by way of interpretive rangers and the wide use of exhibitry. The retail outlet will be operated by Grand Canyon Association, a non-profit park partner that has been assisting Grand Canyon National Park in the areas of education and scientific research since 1932.

Hermit Road Comes out of Hiding after Months of Repairs

After nearly a year of construction, the South Rim’s Hermit Road is once again accessible to park visitors; and with it such popular scenic overlooks as Hopi, Pima, Powell and Maricopa Points.

For decades the seven-mile road, rim trail and parking areas that lie between Grand Canyon Village and historic Hermits Rest fell into disrepair due to a combination of heavy use and the elements. Even after restricting access to private vehicles the infrastructure continued to deteriorate.

In February of 2008 the park service began closing the area and embarking on an ambitious project to address the bucket list of needed repairs. To absorb the thousands of park visitors that were turned away, alternate park service bus routes were added on those roads that remained unaffected.

On November 15th, a newly-invigorated Hermit Road was opened to the public with both ceremony and celebration—just in time for the throngs of holiday travelers.

The Heavy Lifting: Exhibit Honors the Civilian Conservation Corps

In 1933, at the height of the Great Depression, the federal government under President Franklin Delano Roosevelt launched the Civilian Conservation Corps. This popular public works project put thousands of otherwise idle young men to work building and restoring infrastructure and trails in many of the nation's national parks. Grand Canyon National Park played host to as many as eight hundred of these industrious laborers. Among their many accomplishments were the construction of the Clear Creek Trail, the transcanyon telephone line, trailside shelters, and the stone-and-mortar protective wall that runs along the South Rim in the Historic Village District (providing peace of mind to not a few nervous mothers over the decades). At Kolb Studio in Grand Canyon Village, a free exhibit entitled “It Saved My Life, the CCC at Grand Canyon, 1933-1942" will run through October 19^th in celebration of the 75^th anniversary of the CCC's legacy at Grand Canyon. For more information follow this link http://www.nps.gov/grca/parknews/upload/2008-05-23%20CCC.pdf.

Song Sung Blue? Blame the Cow Birds

Few would argue that the Grand Canyon is a visual wonder. For many the view wouldn’t be the same without the ongoing soundtrack provided by the more than one hundred nesting species of birds found throughout the park. The multi-varied calls of the songbirds in particular are inextricable to the Grand Canyon experience (to the dwindling number of visitors not wearing earphones that is). One of the biggest threats to the songbird population is the brown-headed cowbird. These parasitic birds lay their eggs in the nests of non-cowbirds, and leave it to the host bird to hatch and raise their offspring, often at the expense of the host birds own young. The National Park Service will be conducting a survey of songbird nests throughout the park this summer in an effort to determine the severity of the problem. You can help. If you are aware of a songbird nest in the park, please contact wildlife biologist Rosa Palarino. She will do her best to include every known nest in the study. Ms. Palarino can be reached at rosa_palarino@nps.gov. 

From Russia with…Knapweed?

Grand Canyon National Park is home to over 1600 species of plants, demonstrating some of the greatest biodiversity of any national park. Unfortunately not all of these botanical residents were invited guests. Non-indigenous plants (otherwise known as “exotics”) have increasingly become a disruption to the park’s natural balance. Plants such as Russian knapweed and tamarisk have frustrated the parks vegetation specialists for years as they continue to spread despite concerted efforts towards eradication.

It was recently announced that the latest initiative to battle these non-native plants, including the use of herbicides, will be extended through the end of the year. With a little luck, the National Park Service Vegetation Program will gain the upper hand on a few of these unwelcome guests.

Find out how you can help by following this link
http://www.gcvolunteers.org/

Uranium Mines Proposed Within Sight of Grand Canyon

In recent years the mining industry has staged a dramatic comeback in the western states, driven primarily by rising oil prices across the globe. Natural gas exploration and drilling on public lands have perhaps garnered the most headlines, but the renewed hunt for uranium deposits holds the greatest consequences for the Grand Canyon region. A fifteen-fold increase in uranium prices in recent years has led to the filing of thousands of mining claims, many of which are within ten miles of the Grand Canyon itself. Environmentalists and like-minded politicians are mobilizing to exclude the lands adjacent to Grand Canyon from mining activities. The impending legal tug-of-war on the uranium issue has the potential to rival the high profile battle to prevent the damming of Marble Canyon in the 1950s and 60s. Read more by following this link, and let your voice be heard on the issue by contacting your congressional representatives.

http://www.ens-newswire.com/ens/mar2008/2008-03-13-01.asp

Hispanic Connection to Grand Canyon Grows

The first Europeans to lay eyes upon the Grand Canyon were Spanish soldiers under the command of Garcia Lopez de Cardenas. In search of safe passageways between Spanish missions in modern day New Mexico and California, the party reached the South Rim with their Hopi guides in 1540. Stymied by the expansive canyon, they abandoned their quest and eventually returned to Mexico where their quest began. It would be centuries before explorers, hunters, and prospectors would follow in their footsteps, ushering in the modern day fascination with the grandest of canyons.

The roots of the Hispanic connection to the Grand Canyon are about to grow even deeper as Grand Canyon National Park takes the first steps toward establishing a “sister park” relationship with a Mexican land reserve. An official gathering designed to strengthen this growing partnership between the National Park Service and their Mexican government counterparts took place at Grand Canyon National Park on February 25th. The “Shared Heritage, Shared Stewardship” conference represented another step toward strengthening ties between two countries that share common resources, such as the Sonoran Desert in the case of Grand Canyon, and environmental concerns.

Popular Hermit Road to Close for Repairs

Long term closures throughout most of 2008 are planned for Hermit Road, the seven-mile drive extending from Grand Canyon Village to historic Hermits Rest. Constructed by the Bureau of Public Roads and National Park Service in the mid-30s, this serpentine road with the big views is a favorite among visitors riding the park’s free shuttle bus, and hikers utilizing the adjacent Rim Trail.

Both road and trail have long been in need of structural improvements. To this end, a rolling rehabilitation schedule will begin in early April, and last through November. The park service will be diverting visitors to other points of interest during the construction period. One notable exception will be the morning shuttle for backpackers heading to the popular Hermit Trail. This user group will be allowed to descend the Hermit Trail, but will be required to exit the canyon by other routes such as the Bright Angel Trail.

If all goes as planned, the new and improved Hermit Road will be ready again next spring to host the thousands of visitors seeking the unparalleled beauty and relative remoteness of this breathtaking stretch of the South Rim.

For more information click here http://www.nps.gov/grca/parkmgmt/hermit.htm

New & Improved Yavapai Observation Station Opens

The National Park Service recently rededicated the historic Yavapai Observation Station (YOS) upon the completion of major interior renovations. Newly-installed interpretive exhibits focus on the geology of the Grand Canyon, and demonstrate the powerful geologic processes responsible for the carving (past and present) of the fabled chasm. Others serve to make the canyon’s ancient rock strata, nearly two billion years old by most accounts, comprehensible to both the scientific and lay audience alike.

Originally built in 1928, what was then called the Yavapai Point Trailside Museum was designed by architect Herbert C. Maier. In the tradition of the famed architect Mary Jane Colter, Maier took pains to blend the structure with the surrounding landscape. Located on the South Rim at the outer edge of Grand Canyon Village, YOS has since been visited by countless park visitors. Parking and admission are free, and a small bookstore operated by the Grand Canyon Association can be found within.

In a press release issued by the NPS, park superintendent Steve Martin said, “We are extremely excited about the renovation of Yavapai Observation Station, along with the new exhibits that tell the story of Grand Canyon’s geology. This is but the first step, as we continue to forge opportunities for connections between our park visitors and the incredible Grand Canyon.”

“The Man Who Walked Through Time” Reaches the End of the Trail

Another Grand Canyon hiking legend has passed away. In recent years canyon enthusiasts bid farewell to George Steck and Harvey Butchart, two intrepid backcountry travelers that wrote at length about their respective experiences. Joining them in that great wilderness in the sky is Colin Fletcher, author of “The Man Who Walked Through Time.” Fletcher’s account of his 1963 walk from one end of Grand Canyon National Park to the other fired the imaginations of readers at a time when camping and backpacking were gaining popularity across the country.

Perhaps ironically, Fletcher was severely injured in 2001 when he was struck by a car while crossing a rural road. These injuries plagued him until his death on June 12, 2007, at the age of 85. Since his Grand Canyon trek in 1963, the park has been expanded dramatically by absorbing Grand Canyon National Monument and Marble Canyon National Monument. End-to-end hikes are as rare now as they were in Fletcher’s time, with only a few dozen people having accomplished the feat. He will be missed.

Park Visitation Trending Higher

The latest statistics show that Grand Canyon visitation is trending higher, bucking a trend at other National Park Service (NPS) units nationwide. Through April, official reports showed that 1,086,992 people visited Grand Canyon National Park year-to-date, a .35% increase vs. the same period in 2006.

The same report indicated that, system wide, the National Park System received 63.8 million recreation visits from January through April. This was a 3.6% decrease in recreation visits, or 2.4 million fewer visits than in 2006.
Approximately 50% of the nation’s park units reported a year-to-date decrease in visits. The lingering winter-like weather has affected the Midwest Region (-10% or -350,000 visits), National Capital Region (-13% or -1.8 million visits) and the Northeast Region (-5% or -500,000 visits).

At Grand Canyon, no statistics were immediately available on the place of origin of the myriad park visitors. But as a thirteen year resident of I have noticed a large increase in the annual influx of international visitors. In particular, the Europeans seem to be flocking to the park in greater numbers—no doubt aided by the weak U.S. dollar vs. cross-Atlantic currencies of late.

The Rites of Spring: North Rim Opens for Visitation

The North Rim opened on May 15 for what promises to be another busy season. Due to historically heavy snowfall, the National Park Service closes the North Rim to visitation from mid-October through mid-May. Although more remote stretches of the North Rim remain open year round, the lofty plateau endures its harsh winter with little human fanfare.

The North Rim is a favorite for the savvy visitor looking to get away from the hustle and bustle of the South Rim. Many canyon regulars feel the extra few hours of driving is worth the trade off in solitude and cooler temperatures. In fact, it’s often said that the North Rim is where residents of the South Rim go to vacation. As a South Rim resident chomping at the bit to visit the lush forest, and challenging trails on the far side of the abyss, I’d have to agree.

Increased Funding Headed to the Parks

In his Fiscal Year 2008 budget, announced in February, President Bush proposed the an increase in operating funds for the national parks (a $258 million increase over Fiscal Year 2006, for a total of $2.4 billion) and called for three new $100 million components that could provide up to $3 billion over 10 years in increased philanthropic, partnership and government resources for national park programs and projects. These various initiatives represent the backbone of National Park Centennial Initiative, which will culminate in the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service (NPS) in 2016.

“This is money above and beyond our regular budget,” NPS Director Mary Bomar said. “It includes $100 million of additional operating funds for parks each year and up to $200 million annually for special projects and programs paid for by a combination of $100 million in donations and a federal match of up to $100 million.”

“By the National Park Service’s 100th birthday,” Secretary of the Interior Dirk Kempthorne said, “the initiative will have provided significant resources to restore and better protect the parks’ natural, cultural, recreational and historic resources. There will be new and improved visitor centers, trails, campgrounds, and other facilities; more ranger-led programs; greater volunteerism and philanthropy. Visitors’ park experiences will be significantly enhanced. In short, our national park system will be prepared for its next century of excellence in conservation, preservation and enjoyment.”

New Grand Canyon Superintendent Comes Full Circle

Newly-appointed Superintendent Steve Martin has found his way back to Grand Canyon National Park. Martin began his National Park Service (NPS) career in 1975 after graduating from the University of Arizona with a B.S. in Natural Resource Management. His stint as a park ranger at Grand Canyon was but the first stop on a wide-ranging and successful rise through the NPS ranks.

Over the years, Martin served as superintendent at Grand Teton National Park, the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial, Denali National Park and Preserve and Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve. He was the Regional Director for the Intermountain Region, and, most recently, the Deputy Director of the NPS based in Washington, D.C.

Martin has received many awards for supervisory and management accomplishments including the Meritorious Service Award, the Department of Interior's second highest departmental honor.

He has been busy introducing himself to the local community and various park stakeholders, including a speech he gave at Grand Canyon Association’s 75th anniversary community dance where he fondly recalled his early days at Grand Canyon National Park.

A Canyon Between your Toes

Though but a speck on the lofty rim of the Grand Canyon in relative terms, the Grand Canyon Skywalk has generated a canyon-size buzz in the popular media. The Hualapai Indians of western Grand Canyon have been working with a variety of investors and developers to construct a sixty-five foot, see-through platform suspended thousands of feet above the floor of the Grand Canyon.

The Grand Canyon Skywalk, which opened on March 28, is said to be able to withstand the weight of seventy-one fully loaded Boeing 747 airplanes (more than 70 million pounds), though only 120 people will be allowed onto the glass bridge at any given time.

This high-profile attraction is the latest attempt by the Hualapai Nation to increase visitation to their tourist enterprise known as Grand Canyon West—located within the boundaries of the 2000-member tribe’s one million acre reservation in northern Arizona.

President Ford, A Friend to the Havasupai

The recent death of President Gerald Ford brings to mind his role in restoring historic tribal land to the Havasupai Indians after a decades-old legal struggle with the federal government.

The Havasupai had inhabited the exquisite side canyons and forested highlands of Grand Canyon for centuries before the first wave of white pioneers and explorers arrived. Interactions between the tribe and these newcomers were largely peaceful.

A reservation was established in 1880 by President Rutherford Hayes, and adjusted two years later by President Chester Arthur. Their combined proclamations left the tribe with a scant 513 acres to call their own—a mere fraction of the Havasupai’s several million-acre traditional hunting and gathering grounds.

On January 3, 1975, President Ford signed a bill introduced by former Arizona congressmen John Rhodes and Sam Steiger that returned 185,000 acres to the tribe, largely at the expense of Grand Canyon National Park and the Kaibab National Forest.

Havasu Canyon, home to the village of Supai and the tribal headquarters, continues to draw thousands of visitors each year who come to enjoy the idyllic oasis and its famed towering waterfalls. Today, tourism generates over two million dollars annually to the tribal economy.

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Too Much Mussel

Land managers at Grand Canyon National Park are nervously bracing for an uninvited guest. The non-native quagga mussel, commonly referred to as zebra mussel, was recently found in Lake Havasu and Lake Mead immediately downstream from Grand Canyon. This invasive aquatic species was previously absent west of the Rocky Mountains, and it is feared that it will migrate throughout the Southwest if intervention fails.

Quagga mussels are known to quickly multiply into the billions once the infestation of a water source has occurred. Their biggest curse lies in their diet. These mussels filter tiny pieces of organic matter and plankton out of the water, thus depriving native fish and other creatures of their primary the food source. Each mature mussel can filter a quart of water per day.

The quagga mussel typically migrates with the unintentional assistance of boaters. Both mature and juvenile mussels (the latter being microscopic) attach themselves to watercraft and are thereby transported to unfamiliar streams, lakes and rivers. The best way to halt the advance of the species is by encouraging boaters to thoroughly clean their hulls and bilges prior to leaving a potentially infected water source.

With the help of the general public there is a fighting chance that these unwelcome guests will be shown the door. Find out what you can do to help by visiting the website http://www.100thmeridian.org/.

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Grand Canyon Superintendent Departs

Joe Alston, Grand Canyon National Park’s Superintendent since 2000, is retiring after a 31-year career in the National Park Service (NPS). Born in New York City and raised in Tustin, CA, he attended the University of Kansas where he received his MBA.

After leaving the private sector for the NPS, Joe held a wide variety of positions including stints as the concessions specialist at Yellowstone National Park, Chief of Concessions Management Division in the Alaska Regional Office and as Assistant Superintendent of Yellowstone National Park. He served as Superintendent at Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, Curecanti National Recreation Area and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and Rainbow Bridge National Monument.

During his tenure at Grand Canyon, Joe was deeply involved in a number of high-profile resource management challenges such as addressing the recommendations set forth in the General Management Plan and the release of the controversial Colorado River Management Plan. Joe will continue to live in Arizona with his wife of 32 years, Judy, a long-time educator.

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Winter on the West Rim

If you enjoy the spectacular views of Grand Canyon afforded by the eight scenic overlooks west of Grand Canyon Village, and prefer to have your personal vehicle close by, now’s your time.

During most of the year, the only way to enjoy the eight-mile Hermit Road (formerly known as West Rim Drive) is to take advantage of the free shuttle provided by the National Park Service. The “shuttle only” policy was implemented to avoid traffic congestion, not to mention accidents along this rim-hugging thoroughfare. Given that park visitation drops dramatically in the winter, the road is open to private vehicles from December through February.

Regardless of how you travel, the views from the Hermit Road overlooks are some of the best in the park. Architect Mary Jane Colter’s historic Hermits Rest can be found at the end of the road. Enjoying a cup of hot coffee while rocking before the structure’s magnificent fireplace is a great way to cap a wintry day.

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Grand Canyon History Comes Alive

Grand Canyon has been a magnet for humanity over the Millennia. The past few centuries in particular have witnessed the arrival, departure, and occasionally the demise, of a whole host of colorful characters and noteworthy personalities. The upcoming Grand Canyon History Symposium will highlight the legacies of a wide variety of these individuals. The January 25-28, 2007, symposium will build upon the success of the first such event that was held in 2002. Based in Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim of Grand Canyon National Park, the three-day weekend will include scholarly presentations by experts on Grand Canyon history as well as interpretive tours and lively social events.

The 2007 Grand Canyon History Symposium is the result of hundreds of hours of work by the board and members of the Grand Canyon Historical Society, as well as employees of the National Park Service, the Grand Canyon Association, the Grand Canyon Field Institute and Xanterra South Rim, LLC. For more information or to register visit the Grand Canyon Historical Society at www.grandcanyonhistory.org.

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Deluge in the Desert

October is historically one of the best months for backpacking at Grand Canyon. The late-summer rains are over, and winter snows lie ahead, leaving crisp, dry days and starry nights for those lucky enough to secure a coveted camping permit. Apparently Mother Nature didn't get the memo. On October 13th, a rare string of thunderstorms left hundreds of inner canyon travelers scrambling for cover.

I was backpacking rim-to-rim with my wife and friends, and got caught in the thick of it. Two straight days of rain resulted in raging creeks, spontaneous waterfalls, and nerve rattling thunder. At one point we were forced to wait for an hour as a flash flood inundated the North Kaibab Trail with waist high water. Sadly, one woman was swept downstream as she chose to cross a swollen Bright Angel Creek as a workaround. She was fished out of the torrent by fellow hikers relatively unscathed.

For anyone wondering how the canyon got to its present depth in such a dry part of the country, the answer was sloshing around every corner. Soggy duds aside, it was a magnificent experience; one that ended as quickly as it started. We finished our hike a day later under piercing blue skies, and amidst the rising steam from a scrubbed and polished chasm; neither of us worse for the wear.

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Birthday wishes from Phantom Ranch

Gabcast! Grand Canyon Prints #9 - Happy Birthday, Tery!

We missed our backpacking buddy on our latest rim-to-rim hike... but, you were with us in spirit, Tery!


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Switching Gears on the South Rim

Each year, Labor Day Weekend ushers in a number of milestones at Grand Canyon National Park. The most noticeable is a transition in the visitorship from families to unencumbered adults. Replacing the stroller-pushing parents and their squirrel-chasing toddlers are vacationing seniors, and serious Grand Canyon backpackers taking advantage of the cooler temperatures. In terms of sheer numbers, visitation all but falls over the rim, a mixed blessing for frazzled canyon residents having endured one more "high season."

September also signals the departure of the seasonal employees, many from as far away as Malaysia and the Czech Republic, who return home after spending their summer months changing beds, scooping ice cream, wrestling luggage, and hopefully sneaking in a hike or two between shifts. Left behind are we thousand-or-so permanent locals, sad to say "goodbye" to newfound friends that graciously brought the larger world to our doorstep.

Farewells aside, this change in pace (think Manhattan to Mayberry) suits most of us who call Grand Canyon home. It affords the chance to reconnect with the canyon on our terms as we coast into the holiday season. As if to herald in this new paradigm, the elk begin their lovesick "bugling" about now. Their plaintive sirens punctuate the dark nights and remind us all of our deep connection to the natural world; one that has been waiting patiently for us to take notice.

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Rocky Mountain (Too) High

The family vacation season is drawing to a close at Grand Canyon, and with it the days of wall-to-wall visitors in every direction. I'm often asked, "Where do YOU vacation if you live at the Grand Canyon?" This summer is was the lofty peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park. Joining me in a backpack to the summit of Longs Peak were a few friends for another installment in our once-a-year mid-life crisis peak bagging tradition.

Longs Peak stands on the Front Range of Colorado's Rockies, towering over the endless plains that trail off to the east, literally as far as the eye can see. The 14,259 ft. mountain was first climbed in modern times by Major John Wesley Powell; coincidentally the first man through the Grand Canyon on the Colorado River in 1869. Having rafted through the Canyon in May I was excited to repeat another of Powell's achievements.

After dodging lighting on the grueling climb to our campsite above treeline, a few of my altitude sensitive pals were reeling from the lack of oxygen. We decided to forgoe the summit and descend the following morning. The adventure wasn't a total loss as we were treated to a glorious sunset and sunrise, big views of the nearby peaks, and all the bewildering antics that two hundred city slicker day hikers could serve up.

Any lingering frustration with our aborted climb was washed away when I arrived home at the Grand Canyon, better for the wear as I prepare for a rigorous fall hiking schedule.
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Shower Power

As I type, the smell of approaching rain is drifting through my open window. It’s 4:00 p.m. and the clouds have been building all afternoon after a starry night, and muggy morning. Must be time for the Arizona monsoon! A meteorologist I’m not, but you can learn all about this seasonal shift in prevailing winds and welcome rains by following this link http://geography.asu.edu/aztc/monsoon.html#monsoon.

In northern Arizona, the monsoon season arrived on the Fourth of July weekend—a full three weeks early with history as a guide. It was not a moment too soon, as the much-feared wildfire season of 2006 was just starting to erupt in the tinderbox forests of the region. After our dry-as-a-bone winter, we locals braced for catastrophic wildfires that promised to scorch huge tracts of forested highlands. To be sure, a few have broken out. Just ask the relieved residents of Sedona who survived the fast-moving Brins Fire which was eventually contained by a few hundred firefighters at great expense.

We’re not…ahem…out of the woods yet, but the sporadic afternoon “soakers” may just get us through another year without too many coniferous casualties. Keep your fingers crossed, and, if you’re headed to the Canyon anytime soon, have your rain slicker handy.

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Return of the Web Cam

Grand Canyon National Park's web cam is back! The camera atop the historic Yavapai Observation Station on Grand Canyon's South Rim was out of service for several months while the park service began a series of interior renovations. As a result, Canyon junkies far and wide were deprived of their daily (hourly?) fix when the lights went out. Temporarily gone were the days when my web-surfing friends around the country would alert me, a local, to the Canyon's dramatic cloud play, pooling fog, or approaching storms. The dramatic image to the west refreshes several times an hour, and is just one more way for Canyon enthusiasts to stay connected to their favorite chasm. You can access the web cam from our homepage, or by clicking here: http://www2.nature.nps.gov/air/webcams/parks/grcacam/grcacam.cfm

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Wildfire Prompts Evacuations on North Rim

A massive wildfire forced the closure and evacuation of the North Rim in Grand Canyon National Park. The lightning sparked blaze, dubbed the “Warm Fire”, charred approximately 60,000 acres of the Kaibab National Forest before being fully contained by firefighters on July 6.

Although the fire failed to reach the boundary of Grand Canyon National Park, it burned along the only road (Highway 67) that provides access to the lodges, trailheads and scenic overlooks of the North Rim proper. Visitors and employees alike were escorted to safety via motor caravans through ominous clouds of smoke by National Park Service, National Forest Service, and Arizona Department of Public Safety personnel. At one point, a shift in the wind even shrouded the distant South Rim in smoke and ash. The South Rim remained open throughout the ordeal.

The cost of fighting the blaze is expected to exceed $7 million dollars. Now that the closure has been lifted, visitors to the North Rim will be confronted with a stark reminder of the dangers of wildland fires in the form of an eighteen mile stretch of highway with everything in sight having been burned to a crisp.

Many experts agree that such a conflagration was long overdue on the Kaibab Plateau where a century of fire suppression has had the unintended effect of creating an overgrown forest that is vulnerable to catastrophic wildfires. The good news is that fire is an integral part of forest ecology, and even the areas affected by this recent event will undoubtedly be restored naturally in the coming decades.

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Grand Canyon Photography Takes Center Stage

The inspirational qualities of the Grand Canyon are impossible to exaggerate. For decades, photographers, writers, and artists alike have flocked to the grandest of gorges, collectively trying to make sense of the overwhelming experience through a wide variety of mediums.

Of these artistic disciplines, photography is perhaps the most universally applied. From tourists taking snapshots with disposable cameras, to seasoned professionals dodging lightning and flash floods in pursuit of the perfect picture, camera enthusiasts of all stripes have captured innumerable visual vignettes of the famed chasm.

In recognition of the ongoing dance between camera and canyon the Grand Canyon Association, in cooperation with the National Park Service, Northland Publishing, and Hance Partners, Inc., has produced an exhibit and companion book entitled Lasting Light: 125 Years of Grand Canyon Photography.

This juried exhibit and richly illustrated publication pay homage to the most accomplished and prolific canyon shooters past and present (including this author, I’m happy to report). The free exhibit is located in Kolb Studio in Grand Canyon Village, and will be on display through October 18, 2006.

For more information visit the Grand Canyon Association.

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When the Lights Go Down

Ironically, one of my most memorable moments on the rim of the Grand Canyon took place in total darkness. It was at the peak of the Leonid meteor shower several years ago. On an icy November night, perched on a cliff near Yaki Point, I saw meteorites streaking in every direction. Some fast, others slow. A few dragged luminous trails from horizon to horizon. It was breathtaking.

The South Rim’s combination of high elevation, low himidity, and limited “pollution” from manmade light sources provides for spectacular celestial viewing—as anyone who has visited Lowell Observatory in nearby Flagstaff would agree.

One group that takes full advantage of these fortuitous conditions is the Tucson Amateur Astronomy Association (TAAA). For the past sixteen years they have clustered in Grand Canyon National Park for their annual “Grand Canyon Star Party.” Free star programs are offered, and numerous telescopes are fixed on various galaxies, star clusters, planets and other heavenly bodies. Astronomers from across the country will be volunteering their expertise for this event.

This year’s event will take place June 17-24 in the developed area of both the North and South Rims with events taking place each evening. As always it is free to the public. For details, visit TAAA's site. If you're in the park, check the bulletin board at the Visitor Center for the schedule, or contact Park Naturalist Marker Marshall for more information at (928) 638-7830.

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Uplifting trip Downriver

During a recent ten-day Colorado River trip through Grand Canyon I was reacquainted once again with the seemingly endless array of magical destinations that await the hardy traveler. Elves Chasm, Deer Creek Narrows, Blacktail Canyon, Whispering Falls; each casting it's own spell on the awestruck visitors. One could truly spend a lifetime below the rim and barely scratch the surface of all there is to explore.

My two-dozen companions and I shared everything from turbulent rapids to moonlit nights (not to mention a nasty little gastrointestinal bug, just to keep us honest). Needless to say there was ample subject matter for this slightly overwhelmed landscape photographer. Indeed, I found my greatest challenge was deciding what not to shoot given the finite nature of both time and photographic supplies.

I'm happy to report that I did come away with a few great shots. However, the real "keepers" are the fresh memories of the sublime, serene, and sometimes-spooky world that plays host to the lucky few that run the Colorado River each year.

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Rare May Storm Rumbles Through

Gabcast! Grand Canyon Prints #8



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Another Day in Paradise

Grand Canyon Prints (AudioBlog)



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Live from the Grand Canyon's South Rim

Grand Canyon Prints (AudioBlog)



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Park Visitation Swings Into High Gear (Audio)

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Park Visitation Swings Into High Gear

"If you get lost, just start a signal fire!" "Is that Canada over there?" "Look mom, the squirrel eats crayons." Ah, the sounds of spring along Grand Canyon's South Rim. For the thousand or so year-round park residents, the slow-as-molasses pace of winter in an empty park has been replaced by a visitor-fueled frenzy. Each year the twin engines of Spring break and Easter Week herald the beginning of what's collectively known by Grand Canyon Village residents as the "busy season." The pace will quicken after Memorial Day, relax a tad after Labor Day, and taper off completely through the Thanksgiving holiday; after which the few of us remaining will have a chance to ask each other, "what was that?"

Seriously, these park visitation rhythms are part and parcel of living on the edge. As locals, our energies (and in many cases our paychecks) are calibrated to the inevitable seasonal pulses of activity that come with 4.5 million annual visitors. Yes, the arrival of the tourists means we have to suddenly endure a few more lines, and shoo the occasional picnicking family off our back porch. But it also means connecting with old friends, making new acquaintances, and sharing our enthusiasm for the Canyon with people from every corner of the globe. Most locals agree that it's not a bad trade-off. And, heaven knows, you can't beat the views.

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Air Tragedy Anniversary

A somber milestone in Grand Canyon history is fast-approaching. June 30, will mark the 50th anniversary of the tragic mid-air collision of a TWA L-1049 Super Constellation and a United Airlines DC-7. The two aircraft had ironically left Los Angeles International airport minutes apart, only to converge in a fiery collision that would claim the lives of all 128 people onboard.

The damaged planes plummeted into the rugged terrain of eastern Grand Canyon near Chuar and Temple Buttes. The high-profile tragedy represented the worst mid-air collision in the nation’s history, and was partly responsible for the formation of the Federal Aviation Administration.

Though human remains were removed as soon as crews could get to the scene, it wasn’t until the late 1970s that the National Park Service was able to clear the wreckage from the highest cliffs. Not all the debris could be reached, and it can be seen by passing river runners on the nearby Colorado River.

A decade ago, on a solo hike from my river camp just below the Little Colorado River confluence, I stumbled upon a large tire that was left behind. The ’56 crash was the last thing on my mind, so the partially-buried artifact caught me completely off guard. Once I realized what I had discovered a chill crept over me. In the graveyard silence that enveloped me, it was impossible to imagine the chaos that must have erupted on this rocky slope when the sky rained steel and aluminum.

My melancholy lasted for a few days thereafter—only to lift after I vowed to make the most of every moment below the rim. For myself, and those who spent their final few in the grandest of Canyons.

http://www.aircraftarchaeology.com/twa_united_airlines_grand_canyon.htm

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Take Me to the River (Audio)

Take Me to the River (Audio)

Hear Mike read his personal stories about Grand Canyon. (Click the Play arrow on the above graphic to start.)

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Take Me to the River

Each year, April marks the beginning of the much-anticipated Grand Canyon commercial river running season on the Colorado River. It's a time of year when the grizzled boatmen (and slightly less-grizzled boatwomen) come out of their deep hibernation in the darkened coffee houses of Flagstaff, Durango, and Moab to spend the next seven months ferrying more than twenty-thousand thrill-seeking clients through the world's most famous chasm.

There are many variations on the theme (oars vs. motorboats, a few days on the water vs. weeks, etc.), but the common denominator is unfettered access to the depths of Grand Canyon in the company of an impassioned and knowledgeable crew. The combination of challenging whitewater and majestic environs attracts some of the most accomplished whitewater professionals in the business. In addition, the National Park Service (NPS) holds the sixteen licensed river running concessioners to a very high standard in terms of safety, training, and resource protection.

There are many fewer private boaters who also run the river each year. In some cases these lucky ducks have waited as long as fifteen years for a permit to tackle the river in their personal watercraft. With multiple stakeholder groups arguing for greater access, occasionally through high-profile legal action, the NPS recently underwent a multi-year policy making initiative designed to address these concerns. Their efforts to even the playing field in terms of access had to be balanced with their mandate to preserve the natural and cultural integrity of the Canyon itself. This process culminated in the Colorado River Management Plan (CRMP). The final Record of Decision was released in February 2006.

As expected, the CRMP has no shortage of critics. For the moment, however, these differences seem to have been set aside. At least long enough for the quirky subculture known as the Grand Canyon river runners to grab their Tevas, sunglasses, and lucky hats and prepare to burn off their winter fat threading Hance, Crystal, Hermit and Upset Rapids (to name a few).

For more information on the CRMP follow this link http://www.nps.gov/grca/crmp/documents/FinalROD.pdf

Winter Weather Worth the Wait

Two late-winter snowstorms blanketed the forested rim, cliffs and upper slopes of Grand Canyon during the past few weeks, raising hopes that the ongoing drought may have run its course. A combined three feet of fresh powder couldn’t have come at a better time as communities in northern Arizona prepare for an active wildfire season. As with most Grand Canyon winter storms, the interplay of fog, rain, flurries, and heavy flakes were punctuated by the occasional view of the Canyon—oftentimes through a brief “window’ in the clouds that tends to close as quickly as it opens. For the patient (and warmly-dressed) photographer, the rewards are many. Generally speaking the hikers and mule riders were less lucky. The trails were ice-covered and nearly impassable for at least the first mile below the frosty South Rim. True to form in springtime, the snow is all but melted in a matter of hours as the clouds have been replaced by the warm Arizona sun.

Coming Full Circle on a Canyon Mystery

This past November, during one of my Grand Canyon forays, I was fortunate enough to stumble upon a thousand-year-old ancestral Puebloan pot. An archaeologist friend later determined the place of origin for this black-on-red, well-fired ceramic as modern-day Tsegi Canyon (roughly one-hundred miles due east). I backpacked into Tsegi last week as a means of coming full circle with my discovery.

The shining jewel of Tsegi is Keet Seel, the largest and best-preserved cliff dwelling in Arizona. Home to over one hundred farmers at its zenith, this remote sandstone paradise was abandoned in the late-1200s.

Though the mysterious kivas, granaries, and dwellings were impressive indeed--the biggest thrill for me personally was running my fingers through a mound of maroon-colored clay; perhaps the same quary used for the pot that fired this pilgrimmage.

A pot that remains intact against impressive odds, both in the field and in my mind.



For more info on Keet Seel click here:
http://www.desertusa.com/mag02/Feb/ksteel.html

Big Canyon; Small World

The National Park Service has estimated that nearly 30% of Grand Canyon National Park's 4.5 million annual visitors reside overseas. This seems most appropriate given Grand Canyon's status as a World Heritage Site as declared by UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization). Less is known about the specific nationalities of these foreign visitors. Brits, Germans and Japanese are some of the most frequent countries of origin, though numbers largely depend on the relative strength of worldwide economies. For example, during the Asian financial crisis in the late 90s, far fewer Pacific Rim visitors were able to make the expensive journey.

Lately I have noticed a large increase in tourists hailing from China and the Indian subcontinent. This should come as no surprise given the emerging muscle in their respective economies. A growing middle class typically results in more citizens with the means, and desire, to travel. What I find most interesting is that, regardless of one's point of origin or cultural background, the Grand Canyon has a common mesmerizing impact on all. For this writer, the world feels a bit smaller as a result, and it brings me hope that we can find peaceful means to bridge our differences.

Romance on the Rim

Valentine's Day is fast approaching, and love is in the air. My favorite Grand Canyon lovebird story happened last year as I was leading a family from Philadelphia to remote Shoshone Point as a Grand Canyon Field Institute instructor.

On the dusty road through the forest, just short ofthe South Rim, we encountered a flustered bride and groom on Harleys with a preacher and photographer close behind in their SUV. The couple from Wisconsin were on the rim and just about to exchange vows when the preacher remembered that they needed one more witness (besides the photographer) to make it legal.

Their choice was to drive miles back to Grand Canyon Village and recruit one, or convince us to suspend our hike and conduct the ceremony right there onthe road. My clients were game, so the ceremony began in earnest before the dust from the bikes even settled. Seconds into the preacher's words I noticed that the mother and daughter of the family in my charge were watery-eyed. "Is it the dust?" I whispered. "No," said the sobbing mother. "We always cry at weddings."

Everyone had a good laugh. The newlyweds were delighted by the serendipity, and I have heard since that they all keep in touch.

L' Amore!

Happy New Year!

The holidays have come and gone at Grand Canyon; as have the crowds. The weeks between New Year’s Eve and the arrival of the spring breakers in March are historically marked by the lowest park visitation of the year. Local residents, perhaps 1,200 strong, seize the opportunity to enjoy the Canyon with fewer distractions. Even the wildlife seems to sense the diminished activity as they are in more ready supply, and tend to linger longer, during the winter months. Speaking of winter, the desert Southwest has been locked in a low-precipitation pattern since mid-October. Collective fingers (and hooves?) are crossed as we anxiously await the first blanket of snow.

No Love at First Sight

I spent this past weekend lecturing on the Grand Canyon in wonderful Santa Fe, New Mexico. Whenever I visit I am intrigued by the Spanish influence that dates back to the early 1500s. Their push northward out of Mexico was as bold as it was contentious. The treatment of the native peoples of the area left much to be desired. The Spanish were the first Europeans to view the Grand Canyon. An expeditionary party led by Garcia Lopez de Cardenas stepped up to the South Rim near modern day Moran Point in 1540 along with their Hopi guides. They were seeking a waterway to the Gulf of California as well as Cibola, the fabled seven cities of gold. According to their journals they were frustrated by the impenetrable obstacle; one that we know today as the Grand Canyon. They left empty handed as it were, tricked by the Hopi guides who had many ways into the canyon in the vicinity, but no desire to share them with these menacing guests.

Splitting the Baby: Colorado River Management Plan Unfolds

No discussion of Grand Canyon is complete without at least a tip of the hat to the Colorado River -- the primary carver of the Canyon and the lifeblood of its diverse ecosystem. Beyond the river's role as a natural and cultural resource, it provides the splash in a world-class whitewater experience. This is a river that wears many hats. And for every hat there are highly engaged constituents, advocates, and user groups that have a large stake in its management. After years of research, public meetings, and high-profile policy making, Grand Canyon National Park has released the much anticipated final environmental impact statement (FEIS) to revise the Colorado River Management Plan (CRMP). This document will regulate the use of the Colorado River through Grand Canyon for decades to come. Read all about it through the following link: http://www.nps.gov/grca/crmp/.

The Canyon Name Game

Many international visitors wonder how it came to be that many major land formations in the Canyon are named after Asian religious deities. The task of naming the buttes, mesas, and temples was left to early geologists, artists, and mapmakers. Principal among these was Clarence Edward Dutton, a geologist and student of world religions. During his ambitious Grand Canyon geologic expedition of 1880-1881, Dutton researched his seminal work, "The Tertiary History of the Grand Canyon District, with Atlas." While mapping out the Canyon from the lofty North Rim, he dubbed a few of the mountainous landforms to the east of his position Brahma Temple, Vishnu Temple and Shiva Temple (the "trimurti" in the Hindu pantheon of gods). Those who followed Dutton carried on the tradition, and titles that encompassed Greek and Roman mythology as well as Shakespearean characters were assigned. Given that Grand Canyon has been declared a "World Heritage Site" by the United Nations, the eclectic naming of the Canyon's famous pinnacles seems only fitting. See a few of these majestic landforms by clicking this link: http://www.grandcanyonprints.com/pages/gcgallery_2.htm

Yesterday Comes Knocking

Last week, while scrambling on a steep slope below the South Rim, I stumbled upon an amazing find. There in the dirt lie five hand-sized pieces of a broken ancient Anasazi pot. I was frozen in my tracks and the centuries melted away while I tried to determine how this lovely artifact reached this spot, and to grasp the significance of me chancing upon it. I returned day's later with park service archaeologist Ian Hough. Ian determined quickly that this rare find was indeed an Anasazi ceramic, molded and fired roughly nine hundred years earlier, and carried to this spot from Tsegi Canyon (modern day Navajo National Monument eighty miles to the east). For documentation purposes he reassembled the pot and had me hold it aloft for his camera. Standing there for my closeup, hands mildly trembling, reverently displaying the intricately painted ware, was one of the most powerful moments I've spent in the Canyon. We left the pot on a precarious ledge where I found it (or it found me).

View photograph of pot.

The Early Bird Gets the Worm

The "Golden Hour" in the lexicon of photographers refers to the hour prior to sunrise, and after sunset (give or take a few minutes). The angle of the sun during these windows often lends itself to some of the day's most promising light to compose great images. Grand Canyon is certainly no exception to this rule. Combine this universal phenomenon with the region's low humidity, limited air pollution, and infrequent cloud cover and you can almost bank on a good shot or two if you're willing to rise early and linger late. For more information on this trick of the trade, check out the following link: http://www.digicamhelp.com/what-is-the-golden-hour/

A Shot in the Dark: Night Hiking at GC

Overheated summer hikers at Grand Canyon sometimes receive some counterintuitive advice from those in the know -- wait until dark. Before pushing uphill that is. Nocturnal travel is nothing new to the Canyon's many desert critters, and is much more desirable than wilting in triple digit temperatures. The views under a full or near-full moon are less spectacular than during daylight hours, but visibility is amazing and the experience surreal. I would only recommend this type of endeavor on trails that you are familiar with. And don't forget the flashlight (and spare batteries) in case the clouds move in. Personally, it's the one hike when I don't feel guilty leaving my camera at home.

North Rim: The High Life

I spent this past weekend on the North Rim. Although just ten air miles away from my daily life on the South Rim, the quickest way to arrive by vehicle takes at least four hours. But, oh, is it worth the effort. The North Rim towers over the South Rim by 1,000 feet. This extra height welcomes nearly twice the rainfall, and supports a much more lush forest -- one that includes aspen, fir and spruce, not to mention the North Rim's famous high-altitude meadows. The vibe in both visitors and employees is more laid back than the bustling Grand Canyon Village, and the pace is a gear or two slower too. The wildflower bloom was a sight to behold, though I was a month or two early for the changing of the leaves. The remote nature of the North Rim (and resultant meager visitation), combined with its harsh winter, have led the park service to shut down the tourist infrastructure from November through April each year. If you've never visited, don't wait any longer. If you've been there before, hurry back!